Sometimes I dream of having an ok day. A simple nice day. I
want to wake up in the morning and make breakfast slowly, read a book, watch a
movie. Play guitar and maybe my ukulele. Have another nap. Write some emails.
Clean my room, maybe do some laundry. And then perhaps that evening I’ll see a
friend and we will have a good quiet chat over tea and I’ll go home before 10
and go to sleep. Maybe I won’t write about this day and perhaps there won’t be
any pictures worth taking yet I cant help but feel a quiet yearning to have a
day not worth writing home about.
A few weeks ago there was a grand quadruple birthday party
which coincided with South African national braai day and Pohang exploded into a
huge party of volleyball, Frisbee and silliness. This is when we found out that
soon there was to be a foreigner volleyball tournament which would be funded by
the city hall and there would be a ceremony where they would unveil a special
foreigner statue and honour the foreigners of Pohang. We made a team, my
competitive friends and I, and the volleyball fever was on.
I have never been a volleyball player, there have been the
odd church camp ball throwing around but I soon realized when I saw my South
African counterparts that volleyball is definitely not a South African sport. I
was aware that my American teammates were a bunch more skilled than I was and
thus, for 2 weeks I began living, breathing and eating volleyball. I had to
learn how to serve, how to bump with my hands together, how to pass, all in 2
weeks. We started practicing at 8 in the morning, then during our 1 and half
hour lunch break and then a few times after work. When another friend couldn’t
make 8am we moved practice to 6.30 and started practicing then. Volleyball
entered my dreams, seeing passes in my sleep, watching my serves go out in the
tournament and letting my team down. The pressure was on, all anyone could talk
about when we were out was who was going to beat who and everyone was ready to
“bring it”! (Oh, so many Americans).
The day came. We decked our bodies in glorious paintwork
ready for anything that came at us. I was a fit of nerves, failing at any kind
of casual conversation. The mayor and his homies arrived. He spoke about how
proud he was to have a city that could boast 77 different nationalities and
they are VERY happy to hold activities to integrate the communities. They then
unveiled a huge globe statue and took pictures and (presumably because we were
scantily clad) myself and my buddy Tiffany ended up in the middle of a photo with
a bunch of suited Korean men and we were given corsages and exchanged a million,
very happy “Nice to meet you!”s.
And then the games were on. The first game was against our
friends and we made a good slaughter. Then a game against one of the main cocky
rivals of the day LARD. They had been making all sorts of in your face comments
for weeks about their victory and how they were going to “Lard this” and “Lard
that”. BUT it was a windy day, the match was almost given over to the fate of
the moving air and we took their cocky faces and smashed them into the ground.
We won the next game against the US military.
We were elated, so close to the precious 3rd position (all I
really wanted). But OH! We fought so hard for the next game, we were well
matched, it could have gone either way. But we lost a tiny yet gigantic 14 to
16. No matter, we had one more chance and again, and as luck would have it, against
our cocky friends, LARD. Sadly, due to our previous win they were slightly more
subdued and thus ridiculously more focused and. And. We lost. And went into a sad 5th place. The
depression of losing took hold and I could only sit around in the sand sadly
until I realized that 2 weeks before I barely played volleyball and on this day
we came 5th out of 22 teams. 22 pretty unprofessional teams. But
still. After I shook off my sadness it was a ridiculously fun day, with free
hot dogs and all sorts of festivities and it was so great to be honoured- our
silly little fun foreigner community of Pohang.
Besides the fact that volleyball has been a sole centre of
my mind processes, other things have happened. We had a long weekend and bused
off to the South middle of the country to the WORLD Expo in Yeosu. One of my
friends convinced us the world expo was the place to be and I became increasingly
interested in the affair when I started reading about it. The theme of the expo
was sustainable oceans and I think its focus was (or is) supposed to be that of
taking care and rejuvenating our oceans. For a country as incredibly fish
focused as Korea I was excited to see if there were any attitude adjustments
that could come about in this country which will eat literally anything that
comes out of the ocean (and in ridiculous quantities).
Well I was sorely disappointed. We explored many countries
throughout that tiring over packed crowd and stood in long queues to see well,
nothing really. Well we saw Peru and there was nothing in there besides an overpriced
milk rice thing and a sign that said “Giant squid skeleton” and when we walked
up the stairs we saw people sitting on couches and saw NO giant squid. A couple
of expos later though I had seen some Thai dancers, and some Cambodian and
Vietnamese musical shows and a few movies. Which was all very nice but I was
still searching for the countries sustainable innovations for the ocean.Finally
we went to the United Arab Emirates and they showed a video where a turtle gets
choked to death from a plastic bay and pledged to eliminate plastic bags in the
UAE by 2013. Which was exciting. Yet otherwise, there was nothing, just lovely
pretty videos about how lovely and nice these countries are and why you should
visit them and then a smattering of stats about how much fish they provide the
world with. Not exactly what I had in mind.
It was a very festive yet rather depressing day. I knew the
world didn’t care much about the environmental situation but I was unaware about
the extent to which the world doesn’t
care about the environment. The shocking fact of the matter is that no one does
care. And thus our apathy is sending humanity very quickly in one very sad
direction.
We moved on. We left the expo, squashed into a train that
was filling up faster than we anticipated and headed to another town where
hopefully a jinjibang (Korean bath house) would be more accessible than the
packed town of Yeosu. All 7 of my adventure buddies trooped inside, the girls
to the girl bathhouse and (presumably), the boys to theirs. There were monkey
bars and myself and my 2 friends engaged some Korean women to a naked monkey
bar contest. We won of course (We climb so we can win naked monkey bar
contests!) and went on to the big communal sleeping area where we escaped the insane
heating and found a balcony space with a cool breeze and covered it with a
million mats. We met up with the boys and played games, drinking rice wine
named Makali and slowly going towards the sleep place.
We found our way the next day to the marshes of Gwangnam. We
sleepily walked up a mountainous hill to a nice view. Then we saw a sign that
read “4km to the beach”. We had been activity-izing for days and we were ready
for a solid beach nap. The expedition took us down the other side of the mountain
down a long rocky road to the middle on nowhere. On our left were rocky fields
and to the right was an expanse of mud. The expanse of dried mud enticed me and
I decided I wanted to feel the texture under my feet so I ran into the expanse
only to find myself sinking thigh deep immediately with a million mud animals
scrawling around. I screamed and hurriedly used everything in me to climb out
of that swamp. I ran out and attacked my friends, making us all into a tribe of
mud monsters and we continued on our way. After much confusion and hopefulness
in our hearts we walked and walked and finally came upon a hotel where again we
asked for the beach. A coke truck was standing there and thirstily, we asked
the price. He shook his head and said that oh so glorious Korean-English word
“Service! Service!” Service means you are getting fee stuff and he pulled out 7
(very warm) cokes and passed them around to us thirsty muddy survivors.
Exalting in the sugar, the caffeine and Korea’s kindness we walked on around
another hill and found ourselves finally at the “beach”. It was another pile of
mud where the water started 50 metres in. We needed to get home and I wasn’t
going to be allowed on any transport covered in mud so I had to get into this
sea of mud. We walked to the end of a pier and I jumped off the end in the
murky muddy water, trying to get all my obvious dirt off.
Washing dirt in dirt
is not ideal and pretty disgusting but finally I was vaguely decent (yet
incredibly smelly). Finally we were ready for the home stretch and a taxi and a
bus and another bus, a subway and a bus later we found ourselves back in our beloved
city. We ordered pizza and went to one of our apartments for “The Game”
(Settlers of Catan- a bit of an obsession) and pizza and I finally made my way
tiredly to sleep.
And then there was the Pohang marathon. We had been talking
about it for some time but I failed to sign up as I didn’t really understand
the website. I was kind of thinking about not doing it as I kind of hate
running anyway but it seemed like everyone around my expected me to do it. And
WHO can argue with public opinion? I decided to show up unregistered on the
day. A Korean friend of mine found people who had signed up but were not
running and he pinned my free number to my shorts. And then we were off! AND.
Oh running! How terrible yet wonderful it is. It is such a mind game, deciding
not to stop, telling yourself you may feel terrible but you can still run
another 5 km. The morning was hot and after every km I exalted, not stopping and
only grabbing water mid run from the water tables. When I felt the absolute
killing exhaustion I set a landmark for myself that I would allow myself to stop
but whenever I reached that landmark I wasn’t dying anymore. Finally there it
was! That glorious 9Km sign and I knew I was going to run it all the way. A
Korean woman next to me said to me in another one of those fabulous Korean-Englishisms
“Fighting” and we picked up the pace and ran exultingly to the end line. I got
a free medal, a bunch of energy drinks, coffee and a picture with the mayor.
What a morning.
How many more beautiful experiences I want to talk about.
Like the time we went to this glorious climbing spot, high in the mountains. We
were driving up up up this long windy windy windy windy road. Sweet forest smells
filled the air and we drove past rice farmers thigh deep in rice fields. At the
top we walked some more then down a precarious cliff path to the most amazing
amount of climbs. Heavenly.
And the Busan sand festival. Busan is supposed to be the
Cape Town of Korea and it isn’t quite there
exactly but it’s pretty rad nonetheless. We watched a little volleyball tournament
and then got ready for our flashmob. A flashmob is a mob of people who suddenly
do something pretty weird in synch in public. Often it’s a choreographed dance
though I did a zombie flashmob once where we simply walked around Cape Town
showing our blood covered fangs to anyone who came near. So we learnt this
dance and were ready for our first showing. We hurriedly taught some new people
the dance and then the music sounded and we jumped in and wowed Koreans with
our insych-ness. Now just a side note- Koreans are pretty excited about
foreigners when they see the in the street. Often you will be stopped for a
photo or a hello or a “Nice to meet you!” (when you haven’t really “met “ them
at all). Anyway Koreans get more excited when you do something strange, like
handstand or sing a song or just walk around in a group of similarly looking
weirdos. So imagine how ecstatically interested they were when they saw a bunch
of foreigners dancing in synch in the middle of a festival. We did our dance
and were immediately requested to repeat it in a few hours. SO more frolics
later we arrived back to do it again. We completed the dance for the second
time and then we heard the beginning of our music AGAIN and we shrugged and
danced our dance one more time. We cleared out of the big gap in the crowd we
had been dancing in and then, seeing that there was still a huge circle of
Koreans waiting expectantly for something more to happen my friend Devin and I
decided it was time to show off our handstand skills. It was a competition of 3
rounds and wow I have never had a competition to so many shouts and screams
from watching bystanders.
It’s so easy to feel
special in this place, someday I will go home and have a handstand competition
on a street and everyone will just shrug, or not even shrug, and simply walk on
by.
But I have written so many words. And there have been so many indescribable times.
I cannot explain rock climbing to a non-rock climber and how glorious it is to
approach something that seems impossible but little by little you find
seemingly tiny holds that hold your entire body and somehow you find a place
for your foot and then for your hands again and you feel the strength in your
body pulling you up a beautiful rock face. That feeling I get is something I
cannot begin to put into words.
I will say something about Korea. I forgot in the last
couple of years how incredibly happy and fulfilled sport makes me. I feel so
alive competing against myself, learning how to better myself, working towards
something. Going forward is such a precious part of life and getting better at
something tangibly really makes you feel as if you are doing something with the
life and body you have been given. Again I cannot say how grateful I am to be
here in this easy life with friends who are so willing to DO things and learn
things as well as teach things. Where there are so many opportunities to just
do EVERYTHING!